Old City Wall Walking Tour
HISTORY
Following on from the previous page here are the places to look out for
on the walk around the Old City Wall.
You will find pictures of each historic site and a short history.
The Wall has mostly be demolished but there are many places you will find interesting.
Johnston Terrace
House at top of Granny Green Steps on Johnston Terrace (King’s Wall). The steps to the Grassmarket is where the Flodden wall Stood to the East was Edinburgh, where the wall protected from invaders. Wall Plaque Inscription; Erected on a site near the extremity of the ancient town wall completed in the reign of James II King of Scots A.D. 1460 for the protection of Edinburgh against invasion.
The Fodden Wall Strated at David’s Tower, where the half Moon Battery Stands Today.
There are remains of David’s Tower still visible today in the Castle.
Castle Wynd South
Castle Wynd South is a path and steps that gives access to Johnston Terrace from the Grassmarket.
Originally a medieval (1400’s) thoroughfare wide enough to allow livestock and carts to be moved from the castle down to the cattle and horse markets in the Grass Market. The arch is believed to be entrance to a cellar of an old store. The old wall at the back is believed to be the
King’s Wall (1427) the first wall protecting Edinburgh.
Inscription:
W1 D No X11 6 FT 6 INS FROM WALL
W1 D: Stands for War Department,
No X11: identifying number pipe,
or boundary point (11th in a series).
6 FT 6 INS FROM WALL:
Provides the precise, measured distance from the stone to a structural ancient wall.
Royal Jousting Tournaments
Chapel Wynd Edinburgh
Beneath the Castle walls the Royal Jousting Tournaments once took place. This was the ultimate test for Knights from many countries. Held by King James IV (1488-1513). The last king to die in battle 1513. During the reign of James IV (who was crowned in Kelso) Edinburgh became celebrated throughout all Europe as the scene of Jousting Tournaments. The favourite place for Royal tournaments was a spot of ground just below the Castle rock and near the King’s stables. There, James in particular, assembled the nobles by proclamation for jousting. Offering prizes such as a golden-head lance, horses and purses with gold. Presented by his own hand or that of some beautiful woman. Knights came from all countries to take part in these jousts.
During the reign of James the IV Edinburgh became the resort of men
high in every department of science and art circa 1500.
Commemoration of royal jousting tournaments
during reign of James IV (1483 - 1513)
Paving Stone marking route of Flodden Wall
The paving mark where the Flodden Wall
stood from Granny Green Steps.
The inscription
on the slabs a poem by
Sir Walter Scott (Marmion)
about the Flodden Battle in 1513.
On September 9, 1513, a battle
between Scotland and England took place
on Flodden Field, Branxton Moor.
The English army lead by The Earl of Surry (Thomas Howard) defeated
The Scots and the death of King James IV of Scotland the last monarch to die in Battle.
From Flodden ridge,
The Scots beheld the English host
Leave Barmoor Wood, their evening post
And headful watched them as they crossed
The Till by Twizell Bridge.
High sight it is, and haughty, while
They dive into the deep defile;
Beneath the cavern’d cliff they fall,
Beneath the castle’s airy wall
By rock, by oak, by Hawthorn tree,
Troop after troop are disappearing;
Troop after troop their banners rearing
Upon the eastern bank you see
Still pouring down the rocky glen,
Where flows the sullen Till,
And rising from the dim-wood glen,
Standards on standards, men on men,
In slow procession still,
And sweeping o’er the Gothic arch,
And pressing on in ceaseless march,
To gain the opposing hill.
Sir Walter Scott
1771 – 1832
Salvation Army
Women’s Hostel
West Port
The Salvation Army Women’s Hostel stands beside the Vennel and the site of the West Port Gate at the west end of the Grassmarket since 1911. The area on the right was known as Portsburgh evidence still remains with street signs.
The Salvation Army Women’s Hostel Inscriptions
West Port Inscriptions on the 2 stones on the Hostel Building at the West Port read;
Upper Stone
This stone was laid for | “the glory of god” | by Mrs Deamwell Booth | of the Salvation Army | February 6th 1911
Lower Stone
This stone was laid for | “the glory of god” | by Right Hon. William s Brown | The Lord Provost | February 6th 1911
The Vennel
The Vennel Steps, now have been renamed Miss Jean Brodie Steps, that access to the Flodden Tower
The Paving Stone at the foot of the steps is where the West Port Gate would have stood.
Flodden Tower
The Flodden Wall this is the only remaining lookout tower of the Flodden wall.
It is also where a wall to protect Heriot’s Hospital (school) joined the Flodden wall.
The window in the Flodden Tower.
A double window was inserted in the wall by the town council in 1876
The inscription reads; THIS WINDOW WAS MADE IN THE OLD CITY WALL WITH THE SANCTION OF THE TOWN COUNCIL 1876
Telfer Wall
The Telfer Wall in Heriot Place with Edinburgh Castle in the background.
The Telfer Wall at the corner of Heriot Place and Lauriston Place
Heriots (Hospital) School Edinburgh
Heriot’s in Lauriston Place was the rear to the School. The main school entrance on Heriot Bridge. Now the Gates are reversed. The wealthy Edinburgh citizens would leave provision in their wills to have a Hospital Built, in 1650 George Heriot bequeathed money for a hospital to be built for the poor fatherless children of Edinburgh. Hospital being a name for a free boarding School for poor children being educated in all social skills and academic learning.
Royal Infirmary Edinburgh
The Royal Infirmary established 6 August 1729
The Infirmary was granted a Royal Charter from George II in 1736 which gave it,
its name of the Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh.
The Royal Infirmary original building was a short distance away.
The gates are still in Drummond Street.
The Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh moved again to the site of where old George Watson’s (Hospital) School opposite George Heriots in Lauriston Place 1870. George Watson's Boys College remained at Archibald Place from 1870 to 1932, before moving to Colinton Road where they remain. The Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh moved to a new purpose built Hospital at Little France in 2003. The building has now been renovated and is now part of The University of Edinburgh. The Edinburgh Futures Institute, a space for multidisciplinary collaboration. Data-led innovation, education and research. (AI at its heart)
Telfer Wall
The last part of the Telfer Wall still standing (Lauriston Place).
Behind the wall was the Covenanter’s Prison. Which is said to be haunted.
access is by Greyfriars Kirk
Meadows Pillars
A pair of eight sided pillars both have a unicorn on top stand at the entrance to Middle Meadow walk
a walkway to the Meadows.
On the west unicorn shield the ribbon reads;
"Nisi Dominus Frustra"
'Except the Lord in Vain'.
The motto of Edinburgh since 1647.
On the east unicorn a shield with a ribbon it reads;
"Nemo Me Impune Lacessit"
'No one provoked me with impunity'.
The motto of the Order of the Thistle.
Following on from the previous page here are the places to look out for
on the walk around the Old Town Wall.
You will find pictures of each historic site and a short history.
The Wall has mostly be demolished but there are many places you will find interesting.
Forrest Road Edinburgh
The City Improvement Act in 1867 saw the buildings in Forrest Road,
Teviot Place and Bristo Place replacing, The old poor houses, the building once used as the
Maidens Hospital, Darien House and the Lunatic Asylum were all demolished.
The Asylum being replaced years earlier in the triangle with modern tenements
Forrest road being a new thoroughfare to link the new George IV Bridge with the meadows.
Oddfellows Hall Forrest Road Edinburgh
The Odd fellows Hall was opened in 1873, on Forrest Road. It was the central gathering point for the local members of the Oddfellows Order. The Oddfellows a friendly society which is still in existence, started circa mid-1700. Female figure with a child in her arms, representing Charity, is at the top of the central gable relief of three female figures representing Faith, Hope and Charity is in a shaped panel between second floor windows Three Shields represent the coat of arms with an all seeing eye in clouds above the shields. At each side of the shields are a seated horse in collar and chains. At the hooves of each horse is a gargoyle's head. The Oddfellows sold the hall in 1953.
The inscriptions read;
ODDFELLOWS' HALL
Central Shield Coat of Arms Inscription;
'Amicitia Amor et Veritas'
('Friendship Love and Truth')
Workhouse and Drill Hall
The Drill Hall stands on the site of a Charity Workhouse dating from 1743.
The Drill hall was built in 1872 and is one of limited number that have survived.
The Drill hall was improved when it was to be used as a HQ in 1905.
The inscription above the door reads:
'The Queen's Rifle Volunteer Brigade, The Royal Scots' Headquarters.'
The central plaque reads 'Regiment raised 1859 Headquarters
rebuilt and opened 6th of May 1905
by HRH the Duke of Connaught K.T., Colonel Sir Robert Cranston V.D.,
Colonel Commandant of Brigade.
Lord Provost of the City.
The drill hall was the headquarters of both the 4th and 5th battalions,
the Royal Scots,
"A" to "H" Companies of both battalions.
The Rifle Volunteer Corps and Artillery Corps on 12th May 1859
to defend coastal towns was formed and used this Drill Hall.
Flodden Wall Plaque
New Port (Gate)
Flodden Plaque shows where the
Flodden wall stood.
This section of the Flodden wall pictured below
that still stands in Greyfriars burial ground
was original attached to the Flodden Tower
(In Vennel up from Grassmarket)
and Bristo Port which is no longer there.
The Telfer Wall is now attached to the Flodden Tower and is now the main route of the Flodden Wall.
New North Road Church
Bedlam
The building on the corner named Bedlam was knocked down in 1845 a year after the patients of the asylum were transferred to the new Edinburgh Lunatic Asylum in Morningside.
Lunatic Asylum was founded by Doctor Andrew Duncan in 1809 and opened in 1813.
Robert Fergusson the Royal poet who was a patient, suffered from depression after a serious head injury caused by a fall led to the diagnosed mentally unsound,
the 24 year old died of his head injury this was 1774.
In 1847 a new church was built on the Bedlam site. (New North Road Church).
It closed in 1937, The University of Edinburgh students started Theatre Company in the 70's
(the oldest student run theatre company in Britain) now occupy the building.
The Bedlam Theatre is named after the area where it stands today.
Bristo Place Edinburgh
Bristo Place previously Bristo Street, which was to link Potterrow one of the main thoroughfares. These two roads gave access to Edinburgh from the south, before the Southbridge and Forrest Road had been built. Bristo Street is where the Darien House was sited and the Edinburgh Asylum in an area triangle called Bedlam.
The asylum closed in 1841 (one of the patients was Robert Fergusson the poet).
Bristo Port
Bristo (Street) Place
Darien House Edinburgh
Darien House was the headquarters of the Darien Scheme 1698.
Later it became Darien House Hospital that looked after mentally ill patients.
It stood in the area known as Bedlam on the corner of Teviot Place and Bristo Street
(Now Bristo Place).
Bedlam area was situated in the triangle of Bristo Place, Teviot Place and Forrest Road
with three main buildings, the poor house for children and the poor house for adults and the Maiden Hospital (School).
Teviot Row Bristo Street
Wall Tablet Telfer Wall
Town Wall Plaque
Charles Darwin
Charles Darwin attended Medical School for 2 years but did not complete the course due to its degree of difficulty. Later, he went on to write “The Origin of Species”.
The wall plaque reads; Darwin | on this site | Charles Darwin (1809- 1882)
author of The Origin of Species | lodged at 11 Lothian Street | whilst studying medicine at the | University of Edinburgh | 1825-1827
Kirk O Fields Port
The Kirk O Fields Port name was changed to Potterrow Port, stood across West College Street.
The image is an old map before the National Museum was built.
West College Street continued to halfway down Guthrie Street a direct route to the Cowgate.
The lower part is now steps, was (Horse Wynd)
William Topaz McGonagall
South College Street Edinburgh
William McGonagall was born in March 1825 and died in September 1902 he was a Scottish weaver, poet and actor and was regarded as the worst Poet in the English Language to put pen to paper. Writing over 200 poems of which the worst by far was “The Tay Bridge Disaster”.
His turn of verse has been made known by the
Goons, Monty Python, Spike Mulligan, and Peter Sellers.
The name of the character Minerva McGonagall in J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter series
was named after William McGonagall. The Poetry Library in the Canongate has many his works.
University of Edinburgh History
The University of Edinburgh first opened in 1583 with one teacher and one class in an area called
Kirk o’ Fields now known as the Old College in the South Bridge Edinburgh.
Today the University of Edinburgh has five areas (campus).
On top of the dome of the Old College stands a statue for over 100 years
holding a torch called Golden Boy.
Modelled by a local boxer Toni Hall and created by John Hutchison.
In 1888, the 6 foot (2 m) statue was first unveiled to the residents of Edinburgh.
J.K. Rowling - Harry Potter Story
J.K Rowling, Joanne Rowling was born on 31st July 1965 in a town called Yate in Gloucestershire. Joanne Rowling and her daughter moved to Edinburgh in 1994. She wrote seven Harry Potter books which have been made into movies for the big screen. J.K. Rowling is still a resident in Edinburgh
George Davie Plaque
Drummond Street Edinburgh
George Davie (1912-2007) philosopher and author of ‘The Democratic Intellect’, introduced to each other HUGH MCDIARMID (1892-1978). Author of the Scots poem ‘A Drunk Man Looks at the Thistle’, and SORLEY MACLEAN (1911-1996), author of the Gaelic poems ‘Ddin do Eimldr’, in what was Rutherford’s in 1984.
Robert Louis Stevenson Plaque
In memory of Robert Louis Stevenson 1850 – 1894, son and student of Edinburgh.
“and when I remember all that I hope and feared as I pickled about Rutherford’s in the rain and the east wind; how I feared I should never have a friend far less a wife, and yet timidly hoped I might;
how I hoped (if I did not take a drink) I should possibly write one little book.
And then now-what a change. ! I feel somehow as if I should like the incident set upon a brass plate at the corner of the dreary thoroughfare, for all students to read, poor devils, when their hearts are down. From the south seas September 1888. Presented on behalf of all Stevenson lovers……………September 1995
Original Royal Infirmary Gates
The ornamental gates carved stone gateposts of the infirmary of High School Yards built 1741 were saved and are now preserved at the entrance to the University Geography building in the adjacent Drummond Street. Which was the first purpose built Infirmary in 1741.
Drummond Street is where the Flodden Wall built in 1513 still stands.
The Flodden Wall
The Flodden Wall in Drummond Street turning into the Pleasance Edinburgh.
Where there is an old bricked up gateway for entrance to Edinburgh.
Last Remaining Part
Flodden Wall
The final part of the Flodden Wall that still stands at the foot of St Mary's Street Edinburgh.
The Cowgate Port stood across the entrance to the Cowgate one of the six Ports (Gates)
Cowgate Port + St Mary’s Port
St Mary’s Port across the Pleasance from Heriot’s Hospital to a building at the head of Back of Canongate South (now Holyrood Road). Cowgate Port across the Cowgate from Heriot’s Hospital to buildings on North of Cowgate.
Heriot’s Hospital (School)
Heriot’s Hospital (School) a building on the corner of the Cowgate and Pleasance in Edinburgh.
It was built after the wall and Cowgate Port were removed for development and it is possible the stone from the wall and port were used to build the Hospital (school).
This building is still standing originally built between 1838, the clock face has a date of 1840 and on the front of the building is an inscription: George Heriot's | Hospital | School | 1838.
This one of seven schools opened by the governors of Heriot’s school to give
free education to poor children throughout the city.
St Mary (Wynd) Street Edinburgh
St Mary’s Wynd demolished and No 2 St Mary Street was the first house to be built under the Improvement Act of 1867 and a wall tablet was placed above the door and unveiled by the Lord Provost of Edinburgh the right honourable William Chambers a publisher, politician and brother of Robert Chambers Author and publisher were both influential in Edinburgh’s History.
With further renovation in 1985.
St Mary’s Wynd was built on an old Roman road and was named after the Cistercian nuns of
St Mary and a chapel and hospital dedicated to St Mary both built on the west side of the Wynd.
The Mary’s Wynd was first mentioned circa 1340
when men of Edinburgh walked up Mary’s Wynd after returning from battle.
This was the main route out of Edinburgh to the South.
A Wynd changed its name to street when widened to allow carts to use it.
Nether Bow Port (Gate)
The brass cobbles on the road junction showing the outline of where
the Nether Bow Port (Gate) stood.
On the boundary of Edinburgh and outside the walls,
a baron area before the Burgh of the Canongate (not part of Edinburgh).
The Nether Bow was the most important gateway as it stood at the foot of the High Street.
To many the end of the world.
Cranston Street Edinburgh
Originally Leith (Leytht) Wynd
Leith Wynd or Leytht Wynd (1514) was a road that started on the North Side of the Nether Bow Gate at Cranston Street and continued to the back of the Canongate (Calton Road) near to the entrance of Waverley Station and was used by the coaches to London.. From the Head of the Canongate Leith Wynd travelled down to the foot of Calton Hill then west around the Calton Hill to joint Leith Street.
Trinity Church and Wall End
Edinburgh's Trinity Apse Church stood below the Calton Jail Wall.
It was moved when the Waverley Rail Station was built.
The dismantled it brick by brick and rebuilt it Chalmer's Close in the High Street Royal Mile.
Nether Bow Remains
The clock that was a centre piece of the Nether Bow Port can now be seen on the
Modern Art Gallery 2 (Dean Gallery) in Belford Road.
The bell that hung on the Port from 1621 and a carved stone plaque from 1606 can be seen at the Storytelling Centre where the first gate once stood.
Trinity Apse Church
In 1460, Trinity Church and a hospital for the poor was founded by Queen Mary of Guelders in memorial of her husband the late King James II who had recently died.
In 1848 the church and buildings were demolished to make way for Waverley train Station
The apse when being demolished each stone, lintel and window were numbered and the Apse was rebuilt it Chalmer's Close in the High Street Royal Mile and can still be seen today.
World’s End Close
World’s End Close previously Sir John Stanfield’s Close, Sir John Stanfield was supposedly murdered by his son who was then sentenced to hang at the market cross in Feb 1688 but due to the rope slipping he was finally chopped up and his head was displayed in Haddington his body in Leith and his tongue was cut out and hand chopped of for his crimes against his father.
Known as World’s End Close as this was the last building inside the city wall
which many people had never been past.
Tweeddale Court (King’s Wall)
The wall on the right side of Tweeddale Court is said to be part of the original city wall.
During Burning of Edinburgh in 1544 by an English army lead by Hertford the original Nether Bow gate was almost destroyed. The gate was rebuilt in 1606 were it stands today.
In 1764 all that remained were parts of the wall. Tweeddale Court built in 1576 by the Earl of Lothian for his daughter Lady Yester and she passed it on to the 9th Earl of Yester her grandson the second Earl of Tweeddale who became the Marquis of Tweeddale
Lord High Commissioner of Scotland which was bestowed upon him by William III.
The Last Tweeddale to live here died in 1762 and the mansion house
became the British Linen company. Outlanders session 3 + 4 were shot here.
The British Linen Company occupied Tweeddale Court in 1791 till 1807.
A grizzly murder also took place in Tweeddale Court in 1806, when William Begbie a porter of the British Linen Company was stabbed through the heart and robbed of thousands of pounds when transferring them from a branch at the top of Leith. Some of the money was recovered, but the murderer was never caught. The murderer was later caught for another bank robbery of a similar description in Glasgow, but it was never proven. The thief was later tried for another robbery and found guilty, imprisoned and later died in Old Calton Jail.
Fountain Close
Fountain Close residents were Adam Fullerton and Sir James Mackenzie whose house was purchased by the Royal College of Physicians for a new Library in 1704 and sold again in 1720 for a new Church to be built in 1771. Also in Fountain Close is The Saltire Society which was founded in 1936 and its purpose is to improve the quality of life in Scotland and make people around the world see the values Scotland has to offer everyone in every walk of life. The Saltire Society has no political affiliation and anyone is welcome to become a member. FÀILTE is Gaelic for welcome.
The New Palace Picture House
The New Palace Picture House opened in 1929; and finally closed in September 1956.
It became a night club and music venue called McGoos
and a host of the names of the 60’s played there;
The Who, The Kinks, Spencer Davies Group, Troggs, Wayne Fontana,
The Small Faces, Cream and many more.
Hyndford’s Close
Hyndford’s Close the entrance to the town residence of the Earls of Selkirk.
The first Earl of Selkirk William Alexander colonised Nova Scotia in 1630.
Hyndford’s Close was later to be occupied by Dr Daniel Rutherford
a chemist and Botanist who discovered Nitrogen Gas in 1772.
Dr Rutherford was Sir Walter Scott’s uncle, his sister being Walter’s mother.
The close was named after the Carmichael’s of Hyndford.
Hyndford’s Close (St David’s Lodge) is where Sir Walter Scott became a mason.
South Gray’s Close
Old Mint House Square
The Coinyie House Mint after moving from Edinburgh Castle and firstly, The Palace of Holyrood House. The Coinyie House Mint was situated off South Gray's Close, near the Cowgate in Edinburgh's Old Town. Name Origin: "Coinyie" is an old Scots term for "coin," hence the name "Coinyie House" Scottish Mint from 1574 until the Union with England in 1707, the Mint buildings were demolished 1877, and the site was redeveloped into the Coinyie House Close garden.
Museum of Childhood
Edinburgh’s Museum of Childhood.
The world’s first museum to be dedicated solely to the history of childhood was opened in 1955.
The museum of Childhood contains five galleries with toys and games,
both contemporary and antique, from around the world.
Toys that all ages will remember; Action Man, Sindy, Corgi, Triang, Meccano.
Toddrick’s Wynd
Toddrick’s (Todrig’s) Wynd once belonged to Archibald Todrig a Bailie of Edinburgh
who was attacked in his home in the Wynd in 1500 by two men with swords.
They were caught and taken to the Tollbooth and their hands were chopped off as a punishment. Toddrick’s Wynd was also where Bothwell and his cohorts ascended to Blackfriars Monastery
on 9th Feb 1567 to blow up the provost’s house in Kirk O Fields.
Which led to the death of Henry, Lord Darnley Mary Queen of Scots consort.
Thomas Aitcheson lived here
(The master of the mint).
A grand Banquet was held in 1590 for the
Ambassador and nobles of Denmark.
Melrose Close
Melrose Close was were the Abbot of Melrose (Andrew Durie) had his residence circa 1530,
the close named after him. It was also known as Rosehaugh Close
after Sir George McKenzie of Rosehaugh, King’s Advocate.
Sir George McKenzie (George Bloody Mackenzie) is still known today
due to his tomb in Greyfriars which is said to be haunted.
Cant’s Close
Cants Close was housing for the members of the Anglican Church.
Cants Close Melrose Close Dickson’s Close and Niddry Wynd all were adjoining
and were part of a very upmarket area for the nobility.
The Cant family lived in the close for circa 100 years.
Adam Cant 1403, Alexander Cant 1514 a wealthy family with land in many parts of Edinburgh.
The Building was renovated in 1989 over a period of 15 months.
Dickson’s Close
Dickson’s Close in the High Street on the Royal Mile Edinburgh
was demolished when Niddry Street was widened.
All that remains is the Street sign above the door of the Radisson Blu Hotel.
One of the Close’s occupants was a David Allan who was dubbed the “Scottish Hogarth”
his illustrations and etchings were of great quality.
He died in Edinburgh and is gravestone can be seen in the Old Calton Graveyard.
South Bridge
Southside of Edinburgh was only accessible after the South Bridge had been built.
Built on 19 large stone arches the foundation stone of the South Bridge
was laid 1 August 1785 by Lord Haddo who was the Grand Master Mason of Scotland.
The South Bridge opened in 1788 to pedestrians and traffic
to give direct access to the south of Edinburgh. Many closes were demolished.
West side of Niddry Wynd, Marlin’s Wynd now Blair Street, Pebble’s Wynd,
thought to be the oldest Wynd dating back to circa 1470 and Kennedy Close.
All part of the High Street
The South Bridge is visible from the Cowgate where it passes over the street.
The South Bridge with views over the Cowgate looking east and west.